Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Venice 2

 Are you ready for another day in Venice? 
We'll start on The Grand Canal ..it never failed to impress, with traffic in all directions. We took the Vaparetto (water bus) to the Academy of Art.

 Despite the feeling (and probably some notices about it) that photography was not allowed, there were people walking around with cameras slung around their necks with foot long lenses snapping everything. I eventually plucked up the courage to sneak out my teeny little ixus and got a couple of shots by way of memento. Rather blurry but I think they give an impression of what an amazing gallery this is. I loved the first room best with Ancient altarpieces glowing from all walls.

After being bowled over by Bellini we passed through the exhibition of Saraceni and came upon a room with transferred frescoes by Tiepolo. I loved the way they were displayed as if  in their original setting around the top of the room.
Naturally I got chapter and verse about why they were a bit creased, a bit this and a bit that ..I am married to a restorer after all who has done his fair share of wallpainting transferring!

 More altarpiece splendour behind glass hence the reflections.

 The ceilings were absolutely spectacular as well.

After all that we went for cicchetti.(Thank you Liz for the tip) 
 Now, if you haven't been to Venice you might not know that this is a little piece of crusty bread with a delightfully tasty topping. Sometimes  fish, or meat, or cheese, and they often have roasted vegetables or capers, truffles, olives, and some had fresh green peppercorns. 

You can ask for a selection but in most cases they are eaten standing up. No chairs which is a bit hard on the feet after walking all morning, but the prosecco revives wonderfully!

More walking after lunch. We came to the Gesuiti Church which houses Tiepolo and Titian but we hadn't time to look as we were on our way to the The Peggy Guggenheim Collection. 
(what's another Titian after all?!!!)

Arrival at the Guggenheim was pleasant except that they had no change and I had to use my card for the sake of 1 euro. Shame on them . Surely when its so expensive they can give change? 

The garden was lovely, an oasis of calm and trees and dappled light,  with sculpture by Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth , Anthony Caro and many more. 

There are hundreds of pictures of it HERE

Inside, the works were all modern. It was odd to see works some of which were made at the same time I was at College.
 I liked these blue glass pieces against the Grand Canal.

 By Egidio Constantini after sketches by Picasso.

 An unsettling Magritte.

 A wall with a Braque, Picasso and Duchamp all in a row. Wonderful to see them together.


 I took this for all those textile friends who wrap and dye and rust.

Oh and horribly the famous Robing of the Bride by Max Ernst. 
I've always found that painting really creepy and seen it many many times in books, but here it was in the flesh. I didn't take a picture but if you want to look its HERE

I enjoyed the contrast between the Ancient Art in the Academy and the modern in the Guggenheim. 
It did make me wonder about skill and craftsmanship and what counts as Art in general.....

Anyway here's a bit of modern vernacular installation Art. 
Dozens of padlocks with lovers name engraved, scratched, written locked on the bridge .
I wish I'd taken one with me. 

But we had a nice American tourist who asked use to photograph him and his wife, and then insisted on doing the same for us.
So instead of our own padlock we have a photo . I think after almost 37 years of marriage we don't need to worry about locks!
(I'm on a lower step..not really quite that short!)

Oh and then a welcome relief. A good sit down and gelati (gelato?) at Nicos. Oh it was amazing. We chose a selection of ice creams and he said 'What flavour'. Well I just thought of three of my favourite flavours and asked and they had them. Peach, pistachio and vanilla. I've never had peach ice cream before but I shall endeavour to have it again!

More to come.

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