Marrakech in March 7: Eating out. (not for the squeamish)

These little pastries and sweets are nothing to do with the general thrust of this post but they are so pretty aren't they?



In the evenings we ventured into Djemaa el Fnaa, the central square of the old town.

Water sellers approach to pose,


The noise is cacophanous. There are stalls selling everything from Henna tattoos to false teeth.

Snake charmers, belly dancers, and fortune tellers all vie for attention.

But beware, they can spot a camera at a thousand paces, and every photo has to be paid for.

Dozens of stalls squeeze oranges and sell juice. Dozens of others are piled with dates nuts apricots and figs.

Rows of tables covered in white cloths wait for customers from the food stalls, all shouting words of encouragement to attract diners to try snail soup, meat on skewers and lentil stew.

'Come on ladies, we are air conditioned'

I ask if these are sheeps heads.

The reply

'Yes madame..and sheep bollock, very good'

We decline their offers and move into the souks and on to our meal in the Riyad Monceau,

which is the ultimate in luxury, having a golden hand basin.

No water comes out of the tap..and the food is bland...but its sooooooo stylish.

Its Morrocco.

Marrakech in March 6 :Secret Lives

Behind the red walls of Marrakech lie hidden treasures.

Open the door and walk into a calm courtyard with a fountain or pool, surrounded by walls lavishly decorated with ornate calligraphic stucco,

floral painted cedarwood ceilings

and geometric tiles.

I love this blend of spirals and chequers.

The only connection to the outside world is the

Moucharabia, a high window where the occupants can 'see without being seen', covered by ornate grids of metal.
This one is at the Bahia Palace where 24 concubines lived in rooms around a large courtyard.

We were taken by our guide to a traditional house called a Riyad.

This one had been turned into a museum of Morroccan life by a Dutch man called Bert Flint

Its crammed full of artefacts such as these camel bags,

used by nomads

and old wooden doors.

This is the view from one window across the courtyard .

Some of these Riyads have been converted into beautiful small hotels.

(But not for us....our holiday was cheap!)

As we walked through souks we passed large studded doors hiding who-knows-what beautiful architecture.

I peeped through a crack in one such door ,and although I don't have a photograph, its my abiding magical memory.

I saw a cool long corridor lined with rugs in muted natural colours, perhaps bamboo.

Striped sunlight trickled from above, and at the furthest end of the room one man dressed in a pale garment knelt and touched the ground with his forehead.

Marrakesh in March 5: Le Jardin.

After the hustle and bustle of the souks what better way to spend a few tranquil hours than a visit to 'Le Jardin Majorelle'?

(Once you have haggled with the taxi drivers and convinced them you will stay longer than 20 minutes, and don't want to be picked up and taken elsewhere in their taxi or on their camel)

At every turn a new peaceful sight appears. Cactus of every possible variety lurk in comical or sinister clumps in the beds.
A thicket of stout bamboo intrigues with its pattern of graffiti carved by visitors from who knows where or when.
Birds chirrup and feet crunch on the gravel in slow time, while dry leaves rattle in the breeze.
Water trickles from fountains, and goldfish dart around ponds under banana leaves and cheeseplants.
Sunlight throws shadows and patterns through stained glass on to the conservatory wall while we sip mint tea.


And the restaurant is pretty good too!

Marrakech in March 4: Come with me..

.....to the kasbah and the Souks.
Through arches down winding lanes


lined with tiny shops full of amazing goods.
you can buy anything ...anything!
But you have to barter.

Nothing has a price tag.



It wasn't too busy when these pictures were taken but in the late afternoons and evenings the lanes were bustling with life.


Wall to wall people jostled with mopeds, bicycles, handcarts, donkey carts, shopkeepers and tourists.




'Hello beautiful Laydees, I make you nice price..'
'You like beads?
What you pay?'

I became an expert haggler...its just a game, and when I eventually got a very good price for a bag, we shook hands and both burst out laughing.

I really hope this isn't getting tedious.

I have lots more to share!

Marrakech in March 3: textiles

Seen in the souks

Is there any need for words?

Marrakech in March 2: Shops.

Going to the supermarket will never be the same again. Think souks and Kasbar instead.

I didn't have to shop for food in Marrakech but here are some typical shops around the market square.



Pulses..while the cats away the birds will play..look closely at the sacks.(You can click the pics for closer views)

We asked our guide the name of the little birds pecking at the goods , and he said something like 'ee-beese' but he didn't spell it, so I can't be sure.



This shop seemed to be an Apothocarie




with tortioses too, and in the cages above them, chameleons,



and outside a strange sort of guinea fowl that seemed to be a pet (but you never know)





'Its meat Jim but not as we know it.'

Tripe. Unbleached.




With your meat, two veg? Or three?

All cooked in a Tajine

with maybe a few spices?

Despite this array, the food in Marrakech seemed very bland to me, tasting mainly of cumin and cinammon.

One very simple but delicious dessert consisted of sliced oranges sprinkled with cinammon. The oranges there are beautifully sweet and juicy.

I have no idea what these things are.

But he was a very nice man.

Marrakech in March 1: Home. Dazed.

Thank you to everyone who commented on my last post and wished me well.
I was not ill.
I've been to Marrakech and am now home again with a head full to bursting with memories of sights sounds, souks, tastes smells and feelings.
Wow.
I am stunned by the experience.
I am not a seasoned traveller and never left Europe until now.
Here's my favourite photograph for the moment.
It is the first of many.

I'm going to bore you to death with it. For me it was a very special few days.
I think many reading this blog will have been to Marrakesh and will understand. And for those who haven't I hope you might enjoy the tour.
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